The Fur-Friendly Ferry to France

We Try Brittany Ferries’ New VIP (Very Important Puppy) Service

From Bournemouth, it was always a long diversion, but it meant that we the dogs could stay with us during the crossing. However, our relationship with Eurotunnel Le Shuttle ended abruptly with a 4,500% price hike.

pet_friendly_cabin (2)
Rosie on the top bunk. Still lower than Eurotunnel’s Price Hike!

“It’s £2 to change your booking now. If you wait, it might go up a bit.”

“It’s a long drive. We’re not sure what time we’ll arrive in Calais, so we’ll call when we’re nearer.” We figured that even if it went up to about £10, it would be worth it.

The next day; “Change your booking? Certainly sir. That’s £88.00 please.”

The operator played back the recording of the previous day’s telephone conversation as proof that ‘it might go up a bit’ constituted fair warning. The justification was that it was much more expensive to change the booking on the day of travel.

We argued that it would have been more honest to say that it would go up “a lot” and that they could easily choose to waive the charge as a gesture goodwill to a regular customer. They refused, so we sat in the terminal for six hours, while partly-filled trains raced across the Channel. They didn’t catch us out, so they lost the £88.00 – and we have not given them a penny since.

When you’re retired, not many things are worth getting up for at 6am on a Monday!

Travel by boat is always romantic; it makes the journey a much more enjoyable part of the trip. Luckily for Mark, I forgot to sing my Andreo Bocelli ear-worm to him; “Con te partirò, Su navi per mari…” (With you, I go on ships, over seas…)

Our only problem is the separation anxiety. Leaving our precious pups in the caravan on the ferry was almost bearable. However, the experience of our first crossing when we put them in the ship’s kennels for their own comfort was like sending them to purgatory.

We were delighted, therefore, to be offered a pet-friendly cabin, a new facility introduced by Brittany Ferries on their French crossings only this year.

It was not all plain sailing, however. The night before our crossing, we stayed on a campsite in Chichester, near the ferry terminal at Portsmouth. The weather was filthy and we were held up by a serious accident on the M27. We had booked, but as we looked for signs of life at 8.10pm in the dark and lashing rain, the site was deserted. Mark rang the warden’s number posted on the door at Reception and was greeted with;

“Do you want the police or an ambulance?”

“Oh. I think I’ve got the wrong number. I am trying to contact the site warden. “

“I am the site warden. I’m off duty. If you are going to arrive after 8pm, you should ring.”

“We’re ten minutes late. We were caught in traffic. There was an accident on the motorway.”

“Your wife could have rung.”

“She was in the car with me…” It was going to be like that.

“We’re catching the ferry from Portsmouth at 8.15am. We need to be at the terminal by 7.15am at the latest.”

“We don’t open the gates until 7am.”

Welcome! I appreciate that wardens work long hours and it is getting towards the end of the season. However, I worked long hours in a customer-facing role for twenty-five years, yet I managed to remain helpful and polite every day of the year. My job depended on it. And all of the sites near the Poole ferry terminal have been very flexible about opening gates to ensure that customers don’t miss their crossings.

At least we were level and didn’t have to unhitch; we connected the electricity and didn’t bother with the water. Mark had asked if there was anything I needed out of the van before he put the bikes on the back. I had failed to realise that I was down to my last two tea bags. Mark ruled;

“You can’t have tea until the bikes come off!” – so who needs water?!

I had a restless night of worry, although the 6am start went better than expected.

My first concern, getting the caravan off the sodden pitch, was fine. My second – that to press home the value of ten minutes, the miserable warden would deliberately delay us by opening the gates late – was assuaged at three minutes to seven. I wound down my window to thank her and was assiduously ignored; a gesture which says much more about her than me. We won’t be back.

With seconds to spare, we pulled straight up at a check-in window. As usual, our Fur Babies’ microchips were scanned, but for the first time ever, we had to show their muzzles. On-board, our pet-friendly cabin was two steps from the car deck and had a window. Luxury! Previously, we have only ever had inside cabins. Mark brought our final fry up to the cabin and we all had breakfast. Then a shower and a lovely, lovely sleep.

Considering all the gales that we’ve had, it was a remarkably calm crossing. It was hellishly windy on the exercise deck and there were small gaps under the railings that dropped straight down to the water. We kept the doggies close, although worryingly, Kai did manage to slip his lead at one point! The Fab Four didn’t seem to understand that the area, supplied with a bin and a hose, was for peeing and pooing, so nobody did.

Ferry_to_france (2)
The Exercise Deck on the Ferry Normandie

We were allowed back to the car deck about half an hour before docking to allow time for the staff to clean the cabin. For the last few days I had been asking Mark “Are you excited yet?”

The answer was always “Not until we’re on the ferry.” As the ferry door opened like a bright portal on to a new adventure, I got the answer I had awaited. “Yes!”

The Portal Opens On To Our New Adventure!

Contrary to the forecast, the weather in Ouistreham (Caen) was remarkably mild and pleasant as we queued for the new experience of having our passports scanned. Despite the ferry being barely even half full, it took some time. A sign of things to come. Away from the port, we passed a small migrant camp under some trees. Half a dozen refugees were kicking a football around their makeshift tents, constructed from blue tarpaulin.

The weather came later; a furious storm graced our route towards Alençon and Radon with a mixture of bolt and sheet lightening. Curiously, the thunder volume was on mute as we wound through pretty, mountain scenery. This was a bonus for Rosie; she is terrified of thunder.

Beeyootiful Weather We’re Having!

A mosaic of autumnal trees and russet ferns decorated the bends as we wound through the Forêt d’Écouves and the Normandie-Maine Regional Natural Park. We decided not to press too far; 30th September and 15th October are magical dates on the French camping calendar, after which most campsites shut for the season. We didn’t want to arrive late to find our proposed campsite closed and no alternatives nearby.

Although we had stayed there a couple of years ago, Mark had no recollection of Camping Écouves in Radon in Normandy. As we pulled up in torrential rain, my memory the pitches being mostly grass was confirmed. Thankfully, Madame found us a little bit of hard-standing. I took the pups for a very wet woodland walk and a much-needed poo.

But we had done it! We had actually set off. After several near-starts, each thwarted when problems arose just days before departure, we’re back on the road.

Rosie Regards the Heavens – All cosy following Wet Walkies in Radon

Brittany Ferries – Ships with Pet Friendly Cabins

Pets can travel on most crossings, either in your vehicle or in kennels. Kennels and cabins are not availble on all ships. I called Brittany Ferries and was given the following information, but click here for the latest updates on pet travel;

  • Portsmouth / Le Havre – Pet-friendly cabins available on both Baie de Seine & Etretat
  • Portsmouth / Caen – Pet-friendly cabins available on Normandie but NOT Mont St Michel
  • Portsmouth / Spain (Santander & Bilbao) – Pet-friendly cabins available on Cap Finistère and Baie de Seine but NOT Pont Aven

Not all pet-friendly cabins have windows; some are inside. If you want a pet-friendly cabin, book well ahead (as much as one year in peak times) as they are like gold dust!

Click here to go to Brittany Ferries‘ page outlining the pet friendly services.

DFDS Pet Friendly Cabins

Walk With Us!

We are heading for Italy, Poland, Finland and the Baltics. To keep up with the adventures of The Fab Four, Big Blue and Caravan Kismet, please follow my blog. In the next few weeks, we hope that some sunnier postcards from the Continent will land in your inbox!

For further information on pet travel, including the potential impact of Brexit, please see my Wuff Guide to Travelling With Dogs

To catch up on previous trips, click here to see my books, which are available on Amazon worldwide. They cover our adventures in France, Germany, Slovenia, Croatia, Italy, The Czech Republic and Romania.

Published by Jacqueline Lambert @WorldWideWalkies

AD (After Dogs) - We retired early to tour Europe in a caravan with four dogs. "To boldly go where no van has gone before" - & believe me, we have! BC (Before Canines) - we had adventures on every continent other than Antarctica!

17 thoughts on “The Fur-Friendly Ferry to France

  1. We have travelled four times on the GNV ferries from Genoa in Italy to Palermo in Sicily with our Maltese Terrier . The pet friendly cabins are great for the 20 hour journey and the doggy deck is great for walks and meeting other dogs . Dogs are only allowed in these two areas of the ferry but that was fine as we took everything we needed into the cabin and one of us could go out and bring back food .
    We have done the trip from U.K. to Malta with our dog twice now using the Channel Tunnel , the GNV Ferry and then the Catamaran from Sicily to Malta – all were dog friendly.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Wow pet friendly cabins, we would never get something like that here in Australia but I wish we would, we can’t even take dogs on any public transport. Australia is not a very pet friendly country i am afraid. The pups look especially cute, I used to have a dog who was terrified the minute it started raining and no matter what we tried we could never cure her of her anxiety.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. I love the photos of the dogs in the cabin, they look very comfy!
    I agree with Sharon – Australia, and New Zealand for that matter are way behind Europe when it comes to allowing dogs into public indoor spaces. Also dogs aren’t allowed into national parks (to protect the wildlife) which rules out a lot of camping and hiking options in both Australia and NZ.
    We had to leave our boys in the car when travelling between the north and south islands in NZ which was horrifying to know that if anything happened to the ferry we would never be able to get to them. When we moved to NZ they had to go in the cargo hold in crates which was awful but I couldn’t bear leaving them behind in Australia for 4 years. I really wish now that we are living in the UK that our boys with us, they would have loved life in Scotland 😊


  4. Thank you! Britain is an astonishingly dog-friendly country. In most of Europe, there are restrictions on dogs in National Parks, while in the UK dogs are permitted so long as they don’t disturb wildlife and livestock.
    You must miss your boys 😦


  5. Thank you for sharing your experience, I am planning to take my two dogs on holiday this year for the first time, a little nervous, I hope we can carry on doing this after 31 Jan 2020.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. My absolute pleasure, Stephen. I am pleased that it is helpful.

      Nothing should change at the end of January 2020. Provided that the UK leaves the EU in a sensible way on 31st Jan 2020, which seems highly likely unless Mr Johnson does something stupid, there will be a ‘transition period’ until 31st December 2020, during which nothing will change. The rules for human and pet travel will be exactly the same as they are now.

      What happens after that depends on how the UK leaves the EU. I have published two blogs about this – one on pet travel and the other on human travel. They run through the likely scenarios so that you can be prepared. Pet travel will still be possible, but there will be more red tape. For us, we will no longer be able to stay for extended periods in the EU and Schengen area, as UK nationals will have a limit of 90 days in every 180 days with hefty fines and a possible ban for those who transgress.

      You can find the Brexit blogs here;


  6. I wanted to ask how you booked with more than one dog in your cabin. BF website says to call them to clarify if taking more than one dog, however their phone lines are closed.

    Any help would be much appreciated!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Hi Sophie – we travelled out last year, so it was before all the Coronavirus restrictions. From memory, we just called Brittany to explain that we have four dogs, but that they are small. For the French crossings, they told us that they normally allow two dogs in the cabins.
      We have just tried to book a dog friendly cabin back from Spain online, but there was no availability on any of the crossings. They are either all booked up or not available.
      At present, all passenger ferry services are suspended and there is no firm date given for when they will resume.
      The only suggestion I have in current circumstances is to travel on Eurotunnel, since your pups stay in the car with you.

      However, travel from the UK to a destination abroad is not currently possible;
      1. Current UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office advice is against all but essential travel abroad, which will invalidate your travel insurance.
      2. The UK Government has just introduced a 14-day mandatory quarantine on all incoming travellers, with a few exceptions such as lorry drivers and health workers. This is framed in criminal law and carries heavy penalties for breaking its terms. It will be difficult with a dog, since its provisions seem to be more onerous even than lockdown, which allowed outdoor exercise, and isolation of confirmed cases. Section 4 (9) precludes being outside. You can only shop if you can’t get food by any other means.


  7. Thank you so much, that’s very helpful. I’m relieved to hear that two dogs are likely allowed in the cabin. We are moving back to the UK from France so I think we should be okay to travel next month, providing BF are operating!
    I’m a nurse and my partner a doctor, so if I’m correct the quarantine will not apply as we will be tested.

    Thank you very much,
    Good luck on your way to Spain!


    1. My absolute pleasure, Sophie. I am not sure about the quarantine rules. They don’t seem to make much sense. It would seem logical that you would not need to quarantine if you are tested, but then it would seem logical to apply more rigorous quarantine to someone who has tested positive than someone entering the UK from a country with a lower infection rate than Britain, but that is not the case!
      An article in the Guardian on 9th June suggests that the quarantine rule is under review, although it is just speculation at the moment.

      Best of luck with your relocation and thank you for your kind words!


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: