I read that in cycling terms, the Col de Montségur is a Category 2 mountain pass, popular with those slender, Lycra-clad aliens who chase gradients for glory. The same article revealed it to be known for scenic views, the highlight of which is a spectacular perspective of a historic castle ruin. Perched atop a pog – a knuckle of rock rising from the land like a huge pudding-shaped dumpling – the mountain itself propels the fortress of Montségur skyward.

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